One of the main reasons we came to Labuan Bajo was to go to the Komodo National Park and see the Komodo dragons. They only exist here and are very old as a species and seem to be gifted with the genes for survival. They can swim, but not far, which is why they only exist on the islands in the National Park. They can be fast, if they want to, have a poisonous bite (killing their prey slowly), young ones can climb trees, smell each other, trace blood from kilometres away and they just look impressive. They can’t fly however, but that might be just a matter of a few thousands of years.
We went on a combo snorkelling and trek tour to see the dragons on Rinca Island where there are the most dragons and you have the best chance of seeing them. We were lucky enough to see all age ranges, male and female, with a bit of action from one of the older male dragons wanting to claim his spot next to a female. I got it all on video and let me tell you, once you see them make even the smallest move, you’ll happily stay behind your local guide who is equipped only with a forked stick.
Not sure how effective the guide and the stick would be, if a dragon would decide to launch towards you. Overheard someone saying that there is no warning and they could be happily dozing away (or seemingly so) and start and attack.
Mating season just finished more or less and females have now hoarded loads of eggs in one hole with multiple decoy holes kindly dug by some kind of bird which used it during their hatching season before. The females eat some of their own eggs for a couple of months, so in the end, if I understood correctly, about only 10% hatch. The young ones then climb trees and eat their smaller kind, lizards for breakfast, lunch and dinner. How lovely!
Check out the video below. It has a few bits in from the days before we went to see the dragons as well.
What a whirlwind of a few days it has been. We’re now on day 5, but spent two of those getting to this incredible place. The plan was to be in Lombok right now and get over the initial shock realisation that we’re actually doing this. Instead, because of the earthquakes, we changed things around and arrived in Labuan Bajo on Flores. The beach/read/relax bit is coming up tomorrow, but husband is feeling poorly (too much sun already), so we’ll see how that goes.
Labuan Bajo is a small town, mainly living off tourists coming here to see the Komodo dragons, dive or snorkel. There are a few bits inland to see, but the islands, underwater beauty and the Komodo National Park is kinda it, and don’t get me wrong, enough of a reason to come here.
Because this town mainly lives off tourists going on boat trips, the harbour is full of boats, sometimes even ferries. It also is a place where most of the plastic gets dumped unfortunately. On the bright side, they are trying to keep the National Park clean, doing some education for the locals and tourists on the impact plastic has and an organisation started an initiative to have less individual plastic bottles around for single uses. Like most people, we bought a gallon of water and reuse the same bottles we got on day one.
Before I go into what we’ve been up to, I just have to mention the Roti. I am still not entirely sure what’s in it, but the closest thing I can think of is a sweet milk bun with a crust of coffee paste on top. Sometimes they have a filling, but not sure what that is. Anyhow, it’s delicious. Also, shoutout to instant noodles. They saved us in Surabaya, cause everything was meat and we didn’t want to risk starting off our trip getting stuck on a toilet.
Another tangent, sorry, we craved vegetables already on the first day of being here. I think travelling for two-ish days didn’t help the feeling that we needed something other than rice and noodles. So we treated ourselves at Bajo Taco to some guacamole and a vegetable burrito. Since then, it seems, I am cured and also, we found local food that doesn’t just consist of chicken and rice, so all good now.
Cunca Wulang Waterfall
I highly recommend renting a scooter. It was IDR 75,000 for the day for one scooter. Helmets are included, though sizing was a big generic I think, cause mine was a bit too big and had to adjust it every time we hit a bump, which was basically every 30 seconds. But that was alright with me cause it was amazing to drive aimlessly towards inland on the one and only road. With no real plan, bathing stuff and a full tank, we just started driving. I knew there was a waterfall somewhere, but didn’t know how to get there. On the map the road just cuts off. Turns out there are two waterfalls, Cunca Wulang and Cunca Rami.
The closer we got, the more white people we saw and figured we had to go, if that many made an effort. At this point we were joined by two other couples and we teamed up to get a group price for the waterfall and guide. It ended up being slightly cheaper than had we gone just by ourselves. It does seem to be a bit of an arbitrary bargaining.
What we didn’t prepare for was that our sandals would be a bit of a challenge getting us through the “jungle”. I slid and fell, lost my sunglasses, realised I lost them only after we’d been swimming and found them again on the spot I fell.
To get to the waterfall you have to cross a wooden bridge that looks questionable. I mean, the planks where only held by two nails each in the middle and some of them stood out. But not thrill enough, you have to jump off a rock to see the waterfall. Technically, you don’t have to. You can also climb in and then swim, but where’s the fun in that. I say that now, but I’ve never jumped from that high before (husband said it was 5-6m), so yes, I had butterflies and nervous tingles and my adult self saying “just climb down”. I know many might be saying “that’s not high at all”, but 5-6m is a long way down. Enough to think about what you’d just done on the way down. To think that “shit, I’m going under really far” or realising that you close your eyes too soon cause there is still a bit to go, or “hope my contact lenses make it through”.
But let me tell you, once you’re down, it’s gorgeous. Rocks formation carved from the turquoise coloured water. you have to swim a bit to get to the actual waterfall that comes through a circular opening, but it’s worth the price we had to pay and the jump I did.
Oh man, I had no idea it was going to take me this long to get the video on Brighton edited and uploaded. It always takes about 5 times longer than you think!
But I did it! Yay/applause/pat on the back and thank you to lovely husband for making lunch.
Last summer, we’ve been to Brighton for a weekend and it was a lot colder than it is now. It is currently gloriously blue and sunny outside and it’s been amazing getting to know this city a little more.
Of course we had to go back to our favourite food places, explore some new ones and got a bit of a sunburn (who would’ve thought).
It was definitely the perfect few days before jumping on a plane to Indonesia tomorrow morning. Husband called it the calm before the storm. Let’s hope that this figure of speech isn’t becoming reality after all the horror show posts of boats capsizing and all I’ve read.
On that cheery note, enjoy the video. Again, bloody pain to get that together on an iPad but totally worth it. Maybe next time I’ll figure out how to get different background music on there besides the standard 6 theme tunes available in iMovie.
Which means we’ve now officially switched over to camping-and-living-out-of-our-backpacks mode. I don’t think I’ve properly realised what is happening. For about a month, my focus has been to get everything organised, packed and ready to go and I am very good at compartmentalising, i.e. keeping the eye on the prize in a rational and logical way. Emotions usually hit after I’ve achieved what needed to be done.
So here I sit in our local pub, a baked camembert and a half fish and chips later (didn’t eat all day, see compartmentalising), and start to feel all the feels. It is slowly sinking in that I may not people watch from this corner of the pub anymore, or that our flat is so not cosy enough for this grey and rainy weather. (Reason why we’re in a pub and it at home).
There is still a bit of processing time left; we’re going to Brighton for a few days to switch off and prepare ourselves mentally for what’s to come next. Weather isn’t playing ball so I’ll be wearing everything I’ve packed enjoying the British sea side.
Slight tangent, “our” cat has been in and out these past days exploring boxes and rooms. I wonder, if she knows we’re leaving.
Today marks 1 month until we’ll hopefully sit on a plane to Indonesia. My inner state is split between “ARGH” and “EXCITING”, and I occasionally go through periods of “shit, what are we doing?” especially when packing things up. It’s been all about packing the past couple of weeks. I started slowly with a box of books. Then I realised that I might as well just do as much as I can to take the pressure off, and ended up packing all books, taking down the shelving unit and whipped out our suitcases to crack on with clothes we don’t currently wear and need.
Once the packing itch caught me, I cracked on with drawings, pictures and paintings. Everything looks a bit naked now. Once all our plants were gone, I already thought that it felt odd but now all what makes a home homier is gone. I also realised, that we don’t actually have that much. Every time I’d scan our selection of packing boxes, I question whether we’ll fill them all. I guess it is a good problem to have. It would be slightly more hair-pulling-panic-inducing, if I walked around trying to find more flat-packed cardboard.
I had packed already so much this past week, that boxes started to pile up in the living room. Considering that we still have to live here for another 3 weeks without jumping at the shadows in the middle of the night whilst going to the toilet or bumping your legs and feet every 5 minutes, I figured we need to re-jig things around the flat. So that is what we did yesterday. Husband in tow, I explained my vision (I clearly have thought very long and hard about it!).
We still have a load of packing boxes left, which I assume will now mostly be for the kitchen and other bits and bobs. Also, our suitcases aren’t even full. We can easily add what we’re currently using but not taking with us in there, which feels very reassuring.
About a week ago, we also test packed for the first time. Plan is to do another round this week when we’ve got some more missing bits. I think we’re on track and don’t actually have that much. Revisiting and revising the packing list definitely helped and also thanks to all the feedback we’ve received. I uploaded the latest packing list in the packing list post.
Here’s a little compilation of Instagram stories I did over the past couple of weeks.
The last few weekends have been heavily focused on getting some more flights and places booked for Indonesia. Indonesia is the first country we’re going to and it is not easy being “flexible” and have a “let’s see where we’ll end up tomorrow” attitude because it’s all islands. You can’t just catch a car or bus to quickly hop over to another place; you either need to fly or take a boat. I’ve read plenty of posts and comments on taking ferries and boats for smaller distances (Lombok to Bali) and there are quite a few horror stories out there. For most parts, we’re going to take the plane. It’s not very expensive, so it is ok. But taking planes does mean that we have to book now, cause most planes for travel within the country easily book out (so I’ve read). And we’re less than 3 months away from take-off (eek!).
I didn’t think that figuring out places for Indonesia would be quite this hard. I suppose it isn’t, if you only look at the Unesco World Heritage site (ha!). Once you start looking elsewhere and get to reading various blogs and sites, then you’d almost want to ditch every other country on the list and just tour around the islands of Indonesia for 6 months. They have such diversity from one little island to the next big one. It is crazy to decide and give yourself a time limit. So far we’re at about a month.
Also, we have to take into account travel time in between places. You’d think that because it’s all scattered, it’d be easy to get from one place to another. Don’t get me wrong, I suppose it is fairly easy and there are a lot of airports and options. Though one trip we booked to get all the way to Papua takes 15ish hours excluding the ferry to get to another tiny island, when a direct flight would be 3ish hours. I am not complaining, it is what we chose and are aware of, but it is making me rethink other locations further down the line when, on paper, we’re already at the end of September and haven’t even left the country yet. Oh the irony when I said “scattered” and “easy to get to places”, ha!
On to the less waffly bit
In case you’re curious, the sites we’ve used so far to book flights within Indonesia are Skyscanner and Nusatrip. I also saw that Tiket is an option (as recommended by Lonely Planet), which we might try for the next flights.
Where we want to go
I think this might only end up being a day or two, as we have a lot of other stuff we’d like to see. At this stage though, I am even unsure, if passing through there is even worth it compared to other places.
Does anyone have any recommendations on what to see/do in Jakarta?
Hot on the list are the Prambanan and Borobudur temples. Just google these names and then stay in awe for days. They’re also both on the UNESCO World Heritage list, so we figured, if we’re going to see temples in Indonesia, then these two should be it. They are also relatively close to one another on Java island.
Most people told us that Lombok would be better than Bali for a beach time out, as it is less touristy and less crowded. There is apparently a pink beach and Mount Rinjani, an active volcano you can hike around and up. We might also make a day trip to the Gili Islands which are said to be rather beautiful (but also touristy, so we’ll see).
Komodo National Park
How cool would it be to actually see a real dragon? I mean, it won’t take me on its back up in to the clouds à la Daenerys, but I’ll take what I can. The time we’re going though is when they usually have their little dragons, so hopefully we’ll still see at least one. From a distance I shall think, as I read that they eat whole deer and young ones can climb trees.
We’re going to West Papua, more specifically to Raja Ampat, to spend a few days at the beach and snorkel our way through corals and clown fish. Getting there is a bit tricky, so we chose to take the ferry to Waigeo and back. Fingers crossed it’s all going to be fine. By the way, Raja Ampat is an archipelago with one of the most biodiverse marine life.
Also on Papua, we’re going to the Baliem Valley where the Dani people live. It’s quite tricky finding accommodation there, so should anyone have any tips…much appreciated.